Entries about mosque

After a busy day yesterday, today we continued with a trip to Ronda. We did at least get a small lie in before we headed towards the bus station on the other side of the city. It was just as quick to walk, so we made our way through the Old City, through Plaza Nueva before reaching the bus station.

It was a two hour trip to Ronda, through the flat plains of the Guadalquivir Valley, before reaching the winding roads climbing into the Baetic Mountains that divide northern and southern Andalucia.

Once we reached Ronda it was clear how much difference the mountain made, cooling the temperature by around 5˚C. In hindsight the shorts weren't the best idea...

We wandered into the town, just a short walk away, passing down the main shopping street, and Plaza del Socorro before reaching Puente Nuevo, the iconic bridge spanning the famous gorge.

The bridge sits 120m above the bottom of the gorge, and we spent some time wandering around different views of the bridge, before we took a walk through the old town, crossing the gorge and walking back up through the Jardines De Cuenca.

After enjoying the views of the bridge across the gorge, we made our way back up to Plaza España, before heading over to the bullring where we took a look around to understand more about this historic tradition.

This bullring has existed for almost 250 years. Whilst not on the same scale as some of the huge ones in the bigger cities, it was still in very much the same style. The Ronda School of Cavalry, the oldest in Spain, still has stables and a riding school next to the bullring which we could also view.

After some time taking in the culture, we went and grabbed an early dinner, with views over the area. Ronda sits atop a plateau, and before heading back to the bus station, we went for a walk around some of the footpaths on the cliff edge.

The coach station was pretty busy, with many of the day trippers on holiday excursions boarding their coaches back towards the coast. Unlike the one we arrived on, our coach made a few stops at some of the villages en route, which were actually quite pretty.

Once we arrived back in Seville, we then had a walk back through the city. We walked a different route than the one we made this morning, stopping at the Setas de Sevilla, a wooden structure somewhat resembling mushrooms.

In the basement of the structure are Roman and Moorish remains, which could be seen through the glass windows by the entrance. There is the ability to walk along the roof of the structure, but as it was a combined entry with an exhibition and entry to the ruins, we gave it a miss - it had been a busy enough day so far as it was.

We then made our way back to the hotel for our last night. Enjoying a bit more time up at the roof bar, before getting our stuff together before tomorrow's early start.

With a late afternoon flight, our trip over to Cordoba was both quick and early. We got up and went down for breakfast before checking out, dropping our bags in the luggage storage, and then made it to the station for the 8:43 high speed train.

I normally wouldn't pay extra for expensive high speed trains, but as we were pushed for time we went for it. In fact we got quite a posh journey in luxury seats for the 45 minute journey.

Cordoba normally has the highest average temperatures in both Spain and the whole of Europe. But today was a pretty cloudy day with constant threats of rainfall, reaching the dizzy heights of... 23˚C!

We left the station and then headed over to the icon of the city, the Cathedral. It was originally built as a mosque in 785AD, and was progressively expanded over time before being converted to a cathedral in 1236 after the Reconquista. It therefore is an excellent example of Moorish architecture embodied by the beautiful arches.

We pre-booked our tickets, which were for entry at opening time - 10am. A mass was just finishing as we were allowed in, so we got to witness that, as well as a relatively quiet and peaceful atmosphere.

After taking a look around, we left the complex and went for a walk around the riverside behind, and then along the beautiful Roman Bridge, looking back on views over the cathedral and cityscape.

We then made our way back towards the station, via the Jewish Quarter and leaving the old town through the Almodóvar Gate.

As we walked along the lush boulevard back to the station I received an email from Renfe, the Spanish Railways, to advise me of a delay to our train. We initially had 3 hours from our arrival back in Seville before our flight was due to leave. But as time went on, the train was progressively further delayed, before it eventually arrived in Cordoba almost an hour late.

By the time we got back to Seville, it meant we had to do a mad dash back to the hotel to collect our luggage, before returning and catching the airport bus. Thankfully our delay wasn't enough to cause any problems, and the worst thing about our arrival at the airport was the huge rainstorm that had just started. Having threatened all week, it finally rained. And it pretty much continued the whole time we were in the airport. Our flight was ultimately delayed because of the threat from lightning preventing take off.

For the first time ever, I boarded a Ryanair flight through a jet bridge! Together with the shelter at the airport bus stop, and having carried our raincoats with us everywhere, it meant we didn't actually end up getting wet.

As we flew back home, the whole of Spain was pretty grey, hidden behind the clouds, but not far beyond the French border the clouds cleared and there were beautiful blue skies for the whole of Northern Europe - bizarre!

It had been a very busy few days, and in hindsight probably a bit much. But it had been a lovely trip and interesting to see some of Spain's culture rather than just the beaches!

After a few short trips this year, this trip was to be our big holiday for the year. A mix of exploration, adventure, relaxation, sun and reunions. However the stomach ulcer and toothache that had plagued me all summer had another sting in their tail. Having worse pain than ever before just weeks before the holiday was due to start, I again visited the doctors and changed to a strict diet - hoping to be healed enough by the time the trip came around, but sadly it was not to be.

Despite everything having been organised, booked and sorted for the trip, just two days before we were due to leave we made the sad decision to cancel the first half of the holiday. We would no longer be visiting the Caucasus, hopefully being able to resurrect that part of the trip in the near future. Instead we would now fly directly to Istanbul, where we would be attending the wedding of two of my friends from my Erasmus experience in Germany back in 2012, and subsequently continuing the second half of the planned trip. I therefore cancelled all the bookings and rescheduled our trip, which would now begin a week later.

In hindsight this was the right decision to make, as sad as it felt at the time, and I still ended up having a sick day during this time which reiterated that I just wasn't able to have an adventure holiday right now. Having had an extra week to rest, recover and do the right things, by the time it came around to our rescheduled holiday I was much more ready for the trip.

Despite waking up still feeling a bit ill I was determined to just get on holiday and have a break from everything, so we headed down to Heathrow for our flight. And with it being a normal airline instead of our usual budget airlines we got the luxury of in-flight entertainment and food. After a four hour flight, we came in to land at Istanbul Airport just as the evening arrived. Although after all these hours, it was only now that my stomach pains had started easing - being on the go all day had probably not helped it to settle.

Istanbul Airport was new and had replaced the one that I had used on my last visit, but it was not yet fully connected to the city and so we still had to take a bus to get the hotel. By now it was getting pretty late and as we didn't want to wait an extra half hour, we rushed around trying to buy our transport cards and top them up as quickly as possible to make the next bus. Luckily we made it, and finally we were headed into the city.

Around an hour or so later we made it, and after a short walk with our suitcases up and down the subway passes we arrived at the hotel for our first night, which was also where most of the other wedding guests were to stay. Whilst checking in we bumped into my friend Daniel from Malta, and his partner José, who were also attending the wedding and would be exploring the city with us for the next few days.

After a well earned rest, the following morning we went down for breakfast, being joined by Daniel and José. Not long later, after heading back to the room to get ready for the day we left the hotel and headed into the city. With today being our only full day to explore, we decided to tackle the oldest part - the Historic Peninsular, south of the Golden Horn. Starting with the Grand Bazaar, one of the oldest and largest in the world. It was as to be expected, full of shops teaming with items for sale, as well as people everywhere. It was also something new for me, as I hadn't got to see this on my previous visits.

After a little wander around, we headed out of the complex walking past the Column of Constantine towards the real heart of the city - the Sultanahmet district. With it being Friday we knew the Blue Mosque wouldn't be open in the morning, and so after checking it's opening times we headed over towards the Hagia Sofia, viewing it from the park between the sights.

After purchasing tickets for the Hagia Sofia, we headed around the museum, which was undergoing a bit of renovation, unfortunately lessening some of the impressive impact that would normally be encountered.

After exploring the lower and upper levels, we headed back out into the square, and with half an hour to wait, we decided to visit the Basilica Cistern. As we waited in the queue, we had some catch up conversations with Daniel, although it wasn't long before we entered the cistern.

Unfortunately inside had been drained so we weren't treated to any reflections but it was still an impressive sight. By now, the Blue Mosque was almost open so we headed over and made our way in.

Unfortunately like the Hagia Sofia it was undergoing restoration, and so the enormity and beauty of the mosque wasn't able to be seen, but it was still a nice visit.

Still early afternoon we had time to also visit the Topkapı Palace, and so headed over to the northern end of the peninsular. Buying our tickets, we entered not long after and took a walk around the complex. After taking views over the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn, we entered some of the museum areas. However after a long day and still not being 100% we started to feel quite tired, and so left to grab food and head back to the hotel for a rest.

With Camilla and Onur checking into the hotel tonight, on the way back to the hotel I thought about how funny it would be if we saw them at reception as we walked in. By coincidence, as we reached the entrance there they were coming out of a taxi! Knowing that there wouldn't be a lot of opportunities to spend much time with them on this busy weekend, we said a quick hello and had a short catch up as they waited for their room to be ready.

With more of their other guests arriving, including some Swedes who I had met a few times previously, we headed back to the room to find that our keys no longer worked. After heading back down to reception via the ridiculously slow lifts, and the entire population of Turkey who have no idea how one works, we eventually managed to get a chilled few hours.

As most of the wedding guests were now at the hotel, during the evening a pre-wedding get together had been arranged at a local pub. We met Daniel and José in reception and headed down the road together. Finding the table, it wasn't long before we were joined by other wedding guests as well as the happy couple themselves. It was an enjoyable evening catching up with them but as ever it was over too soon!

The following day was the day of the wedding, although this wasn't starting until this evening. Therefore after breakfast we headed out once again with Daniel and José, this time for the Beyoğlu district on the north side of the Golden Horn. After taking the funicular down the hill, we arrived at the ferry port and took a boat over to the other side of the Bosphorus.

After a twenty minute trip, seeing the sights of the heart of Istanbul on the European side, we arrived in Asia. Although with time already catching up with us, and not much to see on this side, we walked back round the ferry port and boarded the same boat back to Europe. Asia had been stunning but 5 minutes was enough for now.

Upon arriving back in Europe, we started heading back to the hotel, saying goodbye to Daniel and José and walking up the hill past the Galata Tower.

This area was full of little tourist shops so we bought some postcards before walking back to the metro stop seeing the historic trams that run down the avenue towards Taksim Square. We then headed back to the hotel for a rest and afternoon nap to prepare us for the late wedding night to come.

After a good rest we then got ourselves ready for the wedding and headed down into reception to wait for the shuttle bus, where we caught up with some the wedding guests we were already getting to know quite well.

Not long later we boarded the bus and headed out of the city and into the woods to a lovely setting amongst the trees, which was where the wedding was being held. Upon arrival we were welcomed by the close family of the couple, and mingled with the other guests.

After waiting around for a while - the event was clearly being held in Turkish time, the happy couple emerged and walked towards the aisle hand in hand. After a very short ceremony in Turkish and English, which essentially consisted of them saying their names and the "I Dos", they were married, and we were led to the tables for a five course dinner.

We were sat together with the other Erasmus people, including our Turkish friend Merve, who I hadn't seen in 7 years, as well as a Turk who now lives in Germany who I didn't recognise, but had remembered me from the speech I gave on the last party night in Bremen back in July 2012. (I did later find a photo in which we had been photographed together, but that's hardly surprising considering the amount of people I met during that year!)

We had a fun time reminiscing on our shared experiences, and talking about the people we remembered, and sharing updates on how everyone was. As we had conversations, it was as if nothing had changed since the moment we had left. It was a really fun evening and showed yet again just how much of a unique experience Study Abroad is, as these were people we had spent up to just four months with and yet they were friends for life.

After eating dinner the married couple went round each table individually to say hello. Onur had studied in Bremen for the whole year, as I had, whilst Camilla had joined during the summer semester. Camilla was living in the same house as me, and one of their first meetings had been at a party I had thrown at our house the start of term, which Onur would himself move into a few months later. During the summer semester I was able to witness their relationship develop and so it was a real pleasure to be able to be here for thir wedding.

After some more chats on our table it was time for the traditional speeches and first dance, as well as a game of Mr & Mrs, which I now assume is a Scandinavian tradition, after seeing the same thing at a Danish Wedding.

After some Turkish music and dancing it hit midnight, and the older guests were heading home, whilst the younger guests were headed to the "After Party". This was a real change of scene, with more modern, western music.

The party was a lovely experience getting to spend some fun and slightly drunk times with friends, but as ever it was over too soon and before we knew it it had hit 3am. As we waited for the shuttle bus we chatted to the guests and happy couple for the last time recounting stories and reminiscing about our times together. We eventually got back to the hotel at about 4am, and said goodbye to everyone before getting a well earned sleep.

The following day was always planned as a write-off, and after waking in time for breakfast and seeing just a few of the wedding guests who had managed to wake from the night before, we headed back to bed for another few hours.

Waking at around lunchtime we spent the day lazing in the hotel, heading down to the swimming pool before heading out for some food at the local shopping centre. After three days of seeing everyone all the time it felt a bit strange not seeing anyone at all - but it was also refreshing just to relax.

The following morning after breakfast we checked out of the hotel and headed to Taksim Square, taking a look around our last sight in Istanbul.

Not long later we caught our bus to the other airport of the city, crossing the Bosphorus to the Asian side, from where we would catch a flight and continue our trip by exploring Anatolia.

After checking in at the hotel we headed to a fancy restaurant for a meal in our tour guide's home city. Upon arrival we found that a local wedding reception was taking place downstairs and so from the balcony next to our table (and with a vodka shot each) we enjoyed watching the local customs.

After Ian threw down some notes to the wedding below, a member of the wedding party then came upstairs to invite us down! Next thing we knew we were in the wedding party itself, even dressed in our sweaty tourist day-wear. With our evening becoming longer by the time dessert was served up, we were ready to go - but as it was extremely tasty I wasn't going to let this go to waste and helped myself to six puddings! We then made our way back to the hotel, stopping off at the night-lit Registan square.

Our full day tour of Samarkand started after breakfast at the Ulugh Beg Observatory, before heading outside the city to a silk paper factory and back to the Afrasiyab Museum. On our return into the city we headed to Timur's mausoleum, the Gur-e-Amir, before lunch. After another 4 course meal, we finally visited the grand attraction, the Registan - a large public square surrounded by three madrassahs.

Taking in the views we walked around the complex before being let free for some hours in the afternoon to explore Samarkand by ourselves.

I headed to the supermarket opposite to grab some snacks for the next few days - which despite not being much added up to 24,000 som. Paying in 1000 som notes I then found that in order to count cash, the Uzbeks use casino style note counters! I then headed to the tourist street to buy myself a souvenir before going back to the hotel for a rest and to make use of the free WiFi.

We were treated to a theatrical show showing us the history of Uzbekistan through traditional costume, performed by locals - which as usual meant mostly ethnic Uzbeks, as well as the odd Russian chav. We then made our way to dinner where yet another local party was going on.

With one more look at the Gur-e Amir complex, this time by night, we then made our way to the train station for our overnight train to Termez.

By this point I had grown quite close to several members on the tour, and James and Christine had quickly become my travel mum and dad. As we boarded the four berth train carriage we coincidentally ended up in the same cabin! To add to the hilarity, we then called over Daniel, who I had first met on arrival at Ashgabat, and was my travel brother, to join us in our family cabin!

After being given our bed sheets for the night we then all settled down for our train ride to the Afghan border.

The following morning after a comfy night's sleep and some breakfast we headed into the city - starting with the Abdulaziz Khan Madrassah and Toki Zargaron Mosque - which has now been converted into a retail complex. Buying a token Silk Road T-Shirt, we then headed to the city's iconic attraction - the Po-i-Kalyan complex, with it's brick minaret and green domed mosques.

Po-i-Kalyan

Inside the Po-i-Kalyan complex

As it was early in the morning, the complex was relatively empty, and so we could take in the Central Asian Islamic architecture at it's full glory before heading through the market towards the Ark - the Bukhara fort.

Walking past a woman using a pram to carry her life savings, we explored the fort before heading back down towards the Bolo Hauz Mosque.

We then continued towards a park, where we were accosted by some local beggars. Although there were relatively few in Central Asia, in touristy areas like this they were quite determined, and one of tour group, John did give away 1000som to one lady who then followed him in pursuit of more. Claiming that she was "quite cheap" we then headed to the Ismail Samani mosque before jumping on the coach to swing us around to the other side of the city centre for a daytime walk around the pond before lunch.

As we get off the coach the same beggars were just walking down the street and so Ian shouted to John that his wife was back. As he saw her he waved hello, and she recognised him and loudly exclaimed back a big "Heyyyy!!" with matching wave.

Trying once again to shake off the beggars we took a look around the tree filled Lyab-i-Hauz square and adjacent complex before lunch, and then boarded our coach towards Samarkand!

Although relatively small, it was brimming with activity and therefore it was a nice place to soak up the Silk Road. We began by starting at the Western Gate before heading to the Kalta Minor - the short fat blue minaret outside the old madrassah.

After taking a look inside the old madrassah, which has now been converted into a hotel, we headed into the Friday Mosque, with it's wooden pillars and greenhouse feel, before continuing into one of the Emir's palaces.

Viewing one of the mosques we were then given free time to explore the city at our own pace, and so I went with a group of others to the Islam Khoja Minaret for views over the city. As this is Uzbekistan however, climbing the minaret wasn't the easiest - steep spiral steps with a lack of light, and so after grabbing my torch I climbed to the top to find stunning views over the Itchan Kala and beyond, as well as a rather steep drop to the staircase itself (no barriers here!) - which became a challenge when a dozen German tourists also ascended the tower.

Heading back down I went off for a walk with Abdo and Jim to the market, before heading back to the restaurant for lunch. With fresh handmade bread from the stove in the courtyard, we were treated to a four course meal, consisting of salad, kebab meat, soup and dumplings.

After a last walk through the city, we headed back to our hotel at the South Gate, before boarding the coach for the long drive through Uzbekistan to our next destination - Bukhara.