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Eclectic Istanbul

Turkey - Istanbul

sunny 27 °C
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After a few short trips this year, this trip was to be our big holiday for the year. A mix of exploration, adventure, relaxation, sun and reunions. However the stomach ulcer and toothache that had plagued me all summer had another sting in their tail. Having worse pain than ever before just weeks before the holiday was due to start, I again visited the doctors and changed to a strict diet - hoping to be healed enough by the time the trip came around, but sadly it was not to be.

Despite everything having been organised, booked and sorted for the trip, just two days before we were due to leave we made the sad decision to cancel the first half of the holiday. We would no longer be visiting the Caucasus, hopefully being able to resurrect that part of the trip in the near future. Instead we would now fly directly to Istanbul, where we would be attending the wedding of two of my friends from my Erasmus experience in Germany back in 2012, and subsequently continuing the second half of the planned trip. I therefore cancelled all the bookings and rescheduled our trip, which would now begin a week later.

In hindsight this was the right decision to make, as sad as it felt at the time, and I still ended up having a sick day during this time which reiterated that I just wasn't able to have an adventure holiday right now. Having had an extra week to rest, recover and do the right things, by the time it came around to our rescheduled holiday I was much more ready for the trip.

Despite waking up still feeling a bit ill I was determined to just get on holiday and have a break from everything, so we headed down to Heathrow for our flight. And with it being a normal airline instead of our usual budget airlines we got the luxury of in-flight entertainment and food. After a four hour flight, we came in to land at Istanbul Airport just as the evening arrived. Although after all these hours, it was only now that my stomach pains had started easing - being on the go all day had probably not helped it to settle.

Istanbul Airport was new and had replaced the one that I had used on my last visit, but it was not yet fully connected to the city and so we still had to take a bus to get the hotel. By now it was getting pretty late and as we didn't want to wait an extra half hour, we rushed around trying to buy our transport cards and top them up as quickly as possible to make the next bus. Luckily we made it, and finally we were headed into the city.

Around an hour or so later we made it, and after a short walk with our suitcases up and down the subway passes we arrived at the hotel for our first night, which was also where most of the other wedding guests were to stay. Whilst checking in we bumped into my friend Daniel from Malta, and his partner José, who were also attending the wedding and would be exploring the city with us for the next few days.

After a well earned rest, the following morning we went down for breakfast, being joined by Daniel and José. Not long later, after heading back to the room to get ready for the day we left the hotel and headed into the city. With today being our only full day to explore, we decided to tackle the oldest part - the Historic Peninsular, south of the Golden Horn. Starting with the Grand Bazaar, one of the oldest and largest in the world. It was as to be expected, full of shops teaming with items for sale, as well as people everywhere. It was also something new for me, as I hadn't got to see this on my previous visits.

Inside the Grand Bazaar

Inside the Grand Bazaar

After a little wander around, we headed out of the complex walking past the Column of Constantine towards the real heart of the city - the Sultanahmet district. With it being Friday we knew the Blue Mosque wouldn't be open in the morning, and so after checking it's opening times we headed over towards the Hagia Sofia, viewing it from the park between the sights.

Hagia Sofia

Hagia Sofia

After purchasing tickets for the Hagia Sofia, we headed around the museum, which was undergoing a bit of renovation, unfortunately lessening some of the impressive impact that would normally be encountered.

Inside the Hagia Sofia

Inside the Hagia Sofia

After exploring the lower and upper levels, we headed back out into the square, and with half an hour to wait, we decided to visit the Basilica Cistern. As we waited in the queue, we had some catch up conversations with Daniel, although it wasn't long before we entered the cistern.

Basilica Cistern

Basilica Cistern

Unfortunately inside had been drained so we weren't treated to any reflections but it was still an impressive sight. By now, the Blue Mosque was almost open so we headed over and made our way in.

Entering the Blue Mosque

Entering the Blue Mosque

Unfortunately like the Hagia Sofia it was undergoing restoration, and so the enormity and beauty of the mosque wasn't able to be seen, but it was still a nice visit.

Entering the Topkapı Palace

Entering the Topkapı Palace

Still early afternoon we had time to also visit the Topkapı Palace, and so headed over to the northern end of the peninsular. Buying our tickets, we entered not long after and took a walk around the complex. After taking views over the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn, we entered some of the museum areas. However after a long day and still not being 100% we started to feel quite tired, and so left to grab food and head back to the hotel for a rest.

Views over the Bosphorus

Views over the Bosphorus

With Camilla and Onur checking into the hotel tonight, on the way back to the hotel I thought about how funny it would be if we saw them at reception as we walked in. By coincidence, as we reached the entrance there they were coming out of a taxi! Knowing that there wouldn't be a lot of opportunities to spend much time with them on this busy weekend, we said a quick hello and had a short catch up as they waited for their room to be ready.

With more of their other guests arriving, including some Swedes who I had met a few times previously, we headed back to the room to find that our keys no longer worked. After heading back down to reception via the ridiculously slow lifts, and the entire population of Turkey who have no idea how one works, we eventually managed to get a chilled few hours.

As most of the wedding guests were now at the hotel, during the evening a pre-wedding get together had been arranged at a local pub. We met Daniel and José in reception and headed down the road together. Finding the table, it wasn't long before we were joined by other wedding guests as well as the happy couple themselves. It was an enjoyable evening catching up with them but as ever it was over too soon!

The following day was the day of the wedding, although this wasn't starting until this evening. Therefore after breakfast we headed out once again with Daniel and José, this time for the Beyoğlu district on the north side of the Golden Horn. After taking the funicular down the hill, we arrived at the ferry port and took a boat over to the other side of the Bosphorus.

Ferry Across the Bosphorus

Ferry Across the Bosphorus

After a twenty minute trip, seeing the sights of the heart of Istanbul on the European side, we arrived in Asia. Although with time already catching up with us, and not much to see on this side, we walked back round the ferry port and boarded the same boat back to Europe. Asia had been stunning but 5 minutes was enough for now.

Upon arriving back in Europe, we started heading back to the hotel, saying goodbye to Daniel and José and walking up the hill past the Galata Tower.

Galata Tower

Galata Tower

This area was full of little tourist shops so we bought some postcards before walking back to the metro stop seeing the historic trams that run down the avenue towards Taksim Square. We then headed back to the hotel for a rest and afternoon nap to prepare us for the late wedding night to come.

Beyoğlu Trams

Beyoğlu Trams

After a good rest we then got ourselves ready for the wedding and headed down into reception to wait for the shuttle bus, where we caught up with some the wedding guests we were already getting to know quite well.

Not long later we boarded the bus and headed out of the city and into the woods to a lovely setting amongst the trees, which was where the wedding was being held. Upon arrival we were welcomed by the close family of the couple, and mingled with the other guests.

Wedding Venue

Wedding Venue

After waiting around for a while - the event was clearly being held in Turkish time, the happy couple emerged and walked towards the aisle hand in hand. After a very short ceremony in Turkish and English, which essentially consisted of them saying their names and the "I Dos", they were married, and we were led to the tables for a five course dinner.

Just Married!

Just Married!

We were sat together with the other Erasmus people, including our Turkish friend Merve, who I hadn't seen in 7 years, as well as a Turk who now lives in Germany who I didn't recognise, but had remembered me from the speech I gave on the last party night in Bremen back in July 2012. (I did later find a photo in which we had been photographed together, but that's hardly surprising considering the amount of people I met during that year!)

Dinner chats

Dinner chats

We had a fun time reminiscing on our shared experiences, and talking about the people we remembered, and sharing updates on how everyone was. As we had conversations, it was as if nothing had changed since the moment we had left. It was a really fun evening and showed yet again just how much of a unique experience Study Abroad is, as these were people we had spent up to just four months with and yet they were friends for life.

After eating dinner the married couple went round each table individually to say hello. Onur had studied in Bremen for the whole year, as I had, whilst Camilla had joined during the summer semester. Camilla was living in the same house as me, and one of their first meetings had been at a party I had thrown at our house the start of term, which Onur would himself move into a few months later. During the summer semester I was able to witness their relationship develop and so it was a real pleasure to be able to be here for thir wedding.

Photo with the happy couple

Photo with the happy couple

After some more chats on our table it was time for the traditional speeches and first dance, as well as a game of Mr & Mrs, which I now assume is a Scandinavian tradition, after seeing the same thing at a Danish Wedding.

After some Turkish music and dancing it hit midnight, and the older guests were heading home, whilst the younger guests were headed to the "After Party". This was a real change of scene, with more modern, western music.

After Party

After Party

The party was a lovely experience getting to spend some fun and slightly drunk times with friends, but as ever it was over too soon and before we knew it it had hit 3am. As we waited for the shuttle bus we chatted to the guests and happy couple for the last time recounting stories and reminiscing about our times together. We eventually got back to the hotel at about 4am, and said goodbye to everyone before getting a well earned sleep.

The following day was always planned as a write-off, and after waking in time for breakfast and seeing just a few of the wedding guests who had managed to wake from the night before, we headed back to bed for another few hours.

Waking at around lunchtime we spent the day lazing in the hotel, heading down to the swimming pool before heading out for some food at the local shopping centre. After three days of seeing everyone all the time it felt a bit strange not seeing anyone at all - but it was also refreshing just to relax.

The following morning after breakfast we checked out of the hotel and headed to Taksim Square, taking a look around our last sight in Istanbul.

Taksim Square

Taksim Square

Not long later we caught our bus to the other airport of the city, crossing the Bosphorus to the Asian side, from where we would catch a flight and continue our trip by exploring Anatolia.

Tips

Posted by kmmk17 13:26 Archived in Turkey Tagged architecture mosque wedding culture history city friends party drunk islam souq sickness erasmus turkey2019 Comments (2)

Wedding Guests and Bike Pusher-overers

Amalie's Wedding - Osnabrück

overcast 10 °C
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Just a month after returning from South America, I was already heading on my next adventure. The reason? A wedding!

Amalie from Denmark, who I had met on my Erasmus experience in 2012 in Germany, and subsequently visited a few times after, had invited Chris and I to her wedding in Osnabrück, Germany.

We were invited to a whole day of events on the Saturday, but as there was no direct airport link, we flew in via Dortmund (around an hour to the south) on the Friday afternoon, eventually arriving in the city by the evening.

Osnabrück was a typical German city with a modern pedestrianised city centre, leading to the historic and quaint Old City, with a cathedral and town hall and square. We were staying in the hotel where the reception in the evening would be held - a quaint little hotel in the heart of the old city.

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Upon arrival we were already very tired from the long day of travelling, and as the night set in we had a few glasses of wine before being joined at the end of the evening by Laurène, my French friend who was also attending the wedding the following day.

The next morning we woke up for breakfast, before getting ready for the ceremony at the early time of 10:30. Having no idea what to expect, as this was not only a foreign wedding, but also of an international couple, we went downstairs to find the bride, Amalie, standing in the courtyard waiting for her ride to the ceremony.

Wishing her good luck, we then headed towards the Castle where the registry office was located. Upon arriving, we found the small crowd of guests stood outside, and seeing the groom Stephan, we knew this was the right place to wait. Not long after, Amalie and her maids of honour turned up, waving at us all before coming over to greet us and having some photos taken.

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After a ceremony in German, they were finally married and we then all went up to congratulate them both. It was at this point that Amalie's mother approached me, introduced herself, and told me about how much she had heard about me! Pleasant things I hope!

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We then headed back outside for many photos, and to watch as a bed sheet with a big love heart sewn on was unfolded, with the couple both cutting out the hole and walking through the heart.

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After a glass of champagne, it was then time for the close family to head to a restaurant for a meal. This gave us an opportunity to explore the city, and so we headed back to the hotel to change into casual clothes for a bit of tourism!

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Leaving the hotel in the heart of the old city, we headed through the Market Square, past the Town Hall towards the St. Peter Cathedral.

Taking some photos of the cathedral, a big gust of wind blew over the bikes in front of us. Next thing, a German lady was shouting at us. Explaining that we didn't speak (enough) German, she then asked in her most assertive English if we had pushed over her bike? Yes, of course we had, it's what we do for fun in random German cities.

Taking a look around the cathedral, we then continued along the old city wall towards the shopping area where we has Schnitzel for lunch, and then popped in the shops.

Having returned to the hotel for a few hours of rest, at 7 we headed downstairs for the party. This again was a small event, and like earlier in the day, it was unlike any wedding party I'd ever seen. But it was fun to see how the German and Danish traditional inter-played with their own ideas.

After a welcome speech from Amalie, we had lots of chats with other guests before the first of the party games - a battle between the new husband and wife on Hans Christian Andersen fairytales, created by Amalie's father and step-mother.

After another period of chat as well as the Flying Buffet coming around, it was then time for the next battle - a game of Mr & Mrs, created by Amalie's mother.

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We then had an interlude of the dance created by the hen night girls, before the cutting of the cake, and our final game - a treasure island quiz challenge in German by Stephan's friends. By now it was gone midnight, and it was finally time for the first dance, subsequently followed by the midnight buffet.

After watching the photo slideshow of the happy couple's life together, we finally made our way to bed to get some well needed rest after the busy day.

The following morning over breakfast we said our goodbyes to the newly married couple as well as other guests of the wedding, before checking out and heading to the station.

Back in Dortmund, we had a couple of hours to explore the city, however as it was Sunday it was pretty empty, and unlike most German cities, there was little of interest to actually see, bar the Registration Office.

After a lot of travelling and a busy few days, the first weekend trip of the year was now over. An interesting and different experience for us!

Posted by kmmk17 10:53 Archived in Germany Tagged wedding city erasmus Comments (0)

A Weekend in Rio

In Search of the Penguins - Rio de Janeiro

semi-overcast 35 °C
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After a brief day and night in Brasilia, I boarded my flight onwards to one of the cities I was most excited about - Rio de Janeiro. Whilst Brasilia was a warm 25C, Rio added 10C to that. Just like January eh?

Flying over Rio

Flying over Rio

Getting from the airport into the city was a nightmare. As with Brasilia, hardly anyone spoke English, and the bus to the metro stop had nowhere to buy a travel card - just the ability to top one up. Trying to explain this to the guard, he just let me onto the bus without a ticket, where I then had a panicky 45 minutes trying to work out how I would get out of this without a fine at the other end.

Luckily finding that the ticket barrier was only for entry, I managed to escape and get across the walkway to the metro station where I managed to actually buy myself a metro card. Another 45 minutes and I was finally in central Rio checking into my hotel and settling in to a weekend in the city.

This evening I was being joined by my good friend Marina, whom I met and spent just two months with on my Erasmus in Germany. Marina was only spending one full day with me in Rio but it would still be a great time for us to catch up, 4½ years after our study abroad experience came to an end.

Evening Catch Up at Copacabana

Evening Catch Up at Copacabana

Upon her arrival we made our way over to Copacabana for an evening stroll along the promenade, buying some tat before enjoying Caipirinhas and Manjubinha at one of the restaurants on the beachside.

The following morning we had a busy day and so got up for a hearty breakfast before heading towards Christ the Redeemer, which as advised online had been prebooked. However despite the sunshine, upon arrival at the station we were told there was 0% visibility at the top. Telling us we could exchange our ticket for a later time we decided to come back later and explore other parts of the city first.

The city from Sugarloaf

The city from Sugarloaf

Heading to the next place on our list - Sugarloaf Mountain, we got on the cable cars quickly and headed up for views over the city, both the beautiful (Copacabana) and not so (Favellas).

Favellas (from a distance)

Favellas (from a distance)

Already in the 30s at just 10am we explored the top of the world famous mountain, before heading back down and into the city itself. Driving past the seating areas for the carnival that would be appearing a few weeks later, we arrived at the Santa Teresa Tram which had reopened around 18 months previously after a deadly derailment in 2011.

Carioca Aqueduct

Carioca Aqueduct

With new safety rails, the tram took a limited route into the Santa Teresa area across the Carioca Aqueduct that symbolises the Lapa area.

Escadaria Selarón

Escadaria Selarón

Walking down past the aqueduct, we made our way to the tiled Escadaria Selarón before making our way back to the Corcovado station to finally see Christ the Redeemer.

At Christ the Redeemer

At Christ the Redeemer

At the top were wonderful views of the surrounding areas, including Sugarloaf and the bay itself as well as the lagoon, Copacabana and the Maracanã stadium.

Over Rio

Over Rio

Spending lots of time taking photos and avoiding the other tourists doing the same, we made our way back down past the Lagoon to the Ipanema Beach, where we would walk to Pedra do Arpoador for views over the islands in the sea outside Rio.

Copacbana

Copacbana

We then continued to walk towards Copacabana itself where after changing, we got into the sea for a paddle. The sea was lovely and warm, although relatively rough and unfortunately full of litter. With each wave covering us come the wipe of the eyes from the sea water and the plastic.

Nevertheless it was still an enjoyable afternoon in the warm sea. And having enjoyed the beautiful surrounding views, we went off for a meal in a Brazilian restaurant before heading back to the hotel to chill.

After a rest we then headed back out to finish off our weekend together with some drinks back at Lapa.

Sugarloaf Mountain

Sugarloaf Mountain

Having had a busy few days and having seen the best sights of Rio, the following morning was much more chilled. Avoiding the Favella Tour promoted by the hotel, I went for a gentle stroll towards Flamengo Beach, with the Guanabara Bay in front of Sugarloaf, before heading into the city, past Lapa, to the cathedral.

Inside the Cathedral

Inside the Cathedral

The cathedral was designed to evoke a modern take on the Mayan Pyramids, but actually looks more like a giant concrete cheese grater. However inside, the huge stained glass windows transform what is an ugly exterior into a beautiful interior.

Municipal Theater

Municipal Theater

I then walked back via the city centre past the National Bank and Municipal Theatre before arriving at the hotel to relax and get ready for the onward adventure and the more January-like weather waiting for me at the bottom of the continent.

Tips

Posted by kmmk17 17:00 Archived in Brazil Tagged hills beach city erasmus penguinhunt Comments (0)

When a cheeky night becomes a cheeky weekend

Madrid

sunny 25 °C
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After a successful trip to Italy in the summer, Fara and I were off for another adventure - this time to the capital of Spain, Madrid.

Although having been to Spain several times before, I had never been to the capital, and with friends in the city as well as some good flight times, it was a perfect destination for a weekend getaway in the autumn.

We had booked ourselves an early flight out on Saturday and a late flight back on Sunday, giving us almost two solid days in the city, despite it being just one night away. And with the second biggest metro system in Europe, after the stress of Central Asia, Madrid was simple to get around and wouldn't take us too long to see everything we wanted.

Arriving in Madrid by 10am, we cleared the airport and headed to the hotel to drop our bits before exploring the city. The hotel was even closer to the metro than we had expected and after grabbing some snacks at the supermarket next door, we found that our room was already ready for us, and so checked in and dropped the bags.

Puerta Del Sol

Puerta Del Sol

Our first sight was Puerta del Sol, the very heart of Madrid, and from where all distances in Spain are counted from before continuing towards Plaza Mayor - the main city square built by Philip II.

Plaza Mayor

Plaza Mayor


Royal Palace

Royal Palace

Heading through the Old City streets we then arrived at the Royal Palace and Almudena Cathedral, in the heart of Royal Madrid. After going inside the cathedral at the end of mass and taking photos of the nuns, we watched the changing of the guard outside the Palace's eastern entrance before heading past the Opera house and to Gran Via for some shopping and food.

Tapas Night

Tapas Night

After a busy morning we headed back to the hotel for some rest as this evening we would be meeting up with some of my friends. Having been part of the Erasmus programme, during my time in Germany I made lots of friends across the world. Laura, whom I had met up with earlier in the year was from Madrid, and in addition, Teresa from Granada was now living near the capital.

Coincidentally, Marianna from Greece was also in Madrid this very weekend, and so we all met up at Sol on the Saturday evening to catch up and enjoy some drinks and Tapas at a festival taking place this weekend. Meeting more Spanish people we had an enjoyable evening catching up before Fara and I headed back to the hotel for a well earned sleep after an incredibly long day.

Cibeles

Cibeles

Enjoying a very long lie in, the following day we left our luggage at the hotel and headed to Plaza de Colón, the square dedicated to Christopher Colombus, before walking down to Cibeles and then Puerta de Alcalá and the Retiro park, where we would be joined again by Laura and Marianna.

Retiro

Retiro

With Madrid experiencing an exception 25˚C, the park was incredibly busy with city residents and we had an enjoyable time walking around the lakes and gardens before saying goodbye to Laura.

Inside Retiro

Inside Retiro

We then headed back towards Sol, and after saying goodbye to Marianna, Fara and I had dinner before heading back to the hotel to grab our bits and finally the airport for our flight home - or so we thought.

Eventually getting through the incredibly long security queue, we found our flight had been delayed by 45 minutes - ok, nothing to worry about we thought. When this was extended to 75 minutes we had a gate change but everything appeared to be going well - we boarded the plane and were greeted by a less than enthusiastic Agatha, who despite appearing to be able to provide any assistance, when asked for help smiled and stepped backwards. The captain then told us that because of bad weather and landing restrictions back in Luton, we would have an 80 minute delay - in addition to the 75 minutes we'd already experienced, but they would see if they could bring it forward. Not great when it was already getting on for 11pm, but at least Agatha came around with some cups of water - even if we did have to practically wrestle her for them.

Delayed again

Delayed again

Nevertheless we waited, and after an hour we were told they hadn't been able to bring it forwards and therefore because of working hour limits, we couldn't be taken home. Great. Now we had to unbuckle, get on the airport bus, and go back through immigration, where we found a timid Spanish easyJet employee stood in the corner providing little information. With it now getting on for midnight, the plane load of people were of course quite agitated. And with her not giving out any information in English we had to rely on Spaniards translating to let us know our flight was delayed until 10:55 the following morning. Great. There goes me starting work at 8:30....

Eventually she stood on a baggage reclaim belt and announced she would tell us the information in Spanish and then English. After 10 minutes of a question and answer session in Spanish, she eventually started telling us we had a hotel. However by this point the black man next to us had become so irate he shouted at her asking how he was supposed to get his duty free back through security and how his poor wife could go to her job interview the following morning (although why she was fluting back from holiday in Madrid late the night before is another question...). Meanwhile, a Chinese man was filming the whole scene, and when she asked him to stop as it was not allowed, he replied "I know" and then continued to chase around the room; leaving the rest of us not knowing what was going on.

Eventually we were informed that we'd be getting on a coach to take us to the hotel. Hoping that the speedy boarding policy was no longer in operation, we boarded the coach and were taken to a lovely 5* Marriott Hotel for the night and provided with food and breakfast the following morning. Although as it was now 2am, it was just an hour per star of the hotel. Had they simply cancelled the flight at the first delay we could have at least rested that night.

The next morning we were taken back to the airport, and with the same seating and same passengers, given a new crew who would take us home. Arriving just after 12, I was so determined/stubborn (delete as applicable) that I would go to work - as I should have been there this morning that I then drove straight from the airport to Hemel, despite still being in yesterday's clothes (including underwear) and with none of my work bits, including door pass in order to prove my point. What a miserable end to a lovely trip....but Madrid was nice at least.

Tips

Posted by kmmk17 17:00 Archived in Spain Tagged park palace city friends erasmus Comments (0)

Stopover in Istanbul

sunny 18 °C
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Waking up in Almaty, a long day was ahead to make it back home. Having originally pondered the possibility of flying home via Astana to view the new capital, after the events of the last few days I was pleased to be making my way home already, and so with Abdo, who was also on my first leg flight, I headed to the airport for my flight back via Istanbul.

After three of the five hours into the first flight, and I was still over Kazakhstan, having viewed the vast steppe, as well as the evaporating Aral Sea.

What remains of the Aral Sea

What remains of the Aral Sea

A few more hours over the Caucasus and Anatolia I eventually landed again at Atatürk airport, where I would be stopping for seven hours, and meeting up with my good friends from my time in Germany, Onur and Camilla.

Catch up

Catch up

Having a wonderful catch up in the city for a few hours grabbing ice cream and dinner by the Marmara, I then made my way back to the airport for my final flight home.

The Marmara

The Marmara

By this point I was again exhausted and looking forward to finally arriving home. Struggling to eat my dinner or nap on the plane (but luckily nabbing a pillow before they all disappeared), by the time of my arrival at Heathrow I was again physically drained and hoping to not get stopped by customs or immigration. I finally found my dad in the arrival pick up and made my last journey home.

The following day I had planned to possibly to go to work, in order to save some annual leave. However when I finally awoke and saw that I had slept for 14 hours and the time was now 13:30, I decided perhaps not. What a trip!

Posted by kmmk17 17:00 Archived in Turkey Tagged airport erasmus Comments (0)

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